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The Centenary Pastry Shops of Madrid

For over a century, Madrid’s historic pastry shops have been a meeting point for literary figures, historical personalities, and sweet lovers alike. Their exquisite aromas and flavors have delighted generations, and they continue to do so, especially during the holiday season.

Casa Mira (Since 1855): The Turrón Temple

In the mid-19th century, Luis Mira left his hometown of Jijona with a cart loaded with turrón and set off for Madrid. Legend has it that he had to restart his journey four times, as he sold out before reaching his destination. He finally arrived and, in 1842, set up a stall in Plaza Mayor, later opening his permanent shop in 1855, which remains unchanged today, adorned with mahogany and mirrors.

Casa Mira is Madrid’s ultimate turrón destination, offering varieties such as almond (Alicante-style hard turrón), Jijona (soft turrón), hazelnut, fruit, and chocolate. Other Christmas specialties include turrón tortas, hand-decorated marzipan eels, Cádiz bread, and glorias (a blend of Marcona almonds, candied yolk, sweet potato, pumpkin, meringue, and cinnamon).

Antigua Pastelería del Pozo (Since 1830): The Masters of Puff Pastry

Founded in 1830, this historic bakery is tucked away behind Lhardy, another Madrid institution. Its wooden façade and charming interior transport visitors to another era. The shop boasts a photo signed by Jacinto Benavente, the 1922 Nobel Prize in Literature, dedicated to Luisa, the grandmother of the current owner.

Famous patrons like Gregorio Marañón and Carlos Jiménez Díaz debated whether sweets should be enjoyed before, during, or after meals while seated in the shop’s antique chairs.

Originally known as Horno del Pozo, its reputation soared in the early 20th century when Julián Leal Charle, a former employee, took over the business. Today, his third-generation descendant, Estrella, continues the family legacy.

The shop’s treasures include:

  • Legendary puff pastries made with Iberian pork lard
  • Traditional turrón (especially the orange-flavored variety and turrón a la piedra)
  • Mantecados and polvorones

Vienna La Baguette (Since 1873): The Baroja Family Bakery

In 1873, Matías Lacasa secured the exclusive rights to produce Vienna bread in Madrid, a finer alternative to the popular candeal bread. He and his wife Juana opened a bakery on Calle de la Misericordia, near the Royal Chaplains’ residence.

After their passing, the bakery was inherited by none other than Pío Baroja, the famous writer, and his brother Ricardo, a painter and engraver. Eventually, Manuel Lence, a young apprentice, purchased the bakery, and today, his descendants run the business, maintaining its original charm at the Calle Goya location.

La Duquesita (Since 1914): The Artisan’s Paradise

Restored in 2015 under master pastry chef Oriol Balaguer, this elegant bakery dates back to 1914 and became a Madrid landmark in the 1930s under the Santamaría family.

Its timeless decor includes:

  • The iconic alabaster figurine that gives La Duquesita its name
  • The original storefront sign, reading “Fine Chocolates and Candies”
  • Marble counters, mirrors, and a grand central chandelier

Specialties include:

  • Traditional turrón
  • Chocolate Christmas trees
  • Panettone (available in fruit, chocolate, or gianduja with chestnuts)

El Riojano (Since 1855): The Royal Baker’s Legacy

Founded in 1855 by Dámaso Maza, the royal pastry chef to Queen María Cristina de Borbón, this bakery is a living museum of Madrid’s confectionery heritage. Visitors can admire:

  • Stuccoed ceilings and Isabelino-style chandeliers
  • Mahogany counters and display cases crafted by palace cabinetmakers
  • A 19th-century wood-fired oven, cash register, and antique scales

Their Christmas collection includes:

  • Roscón de Reyes
  • Handmade turrón
  • Marzipan eels and figurines
  • Candied fruit and traditional butter cookies
  • Bocaidentes (candied egg yolk with walnuts and powdered sugar)

La Mallorquina (Since 1894): The Sweet Heart of Madrid

Founded in 1894 by three Mallorcan entrepreneurs, this pastry shop has been a cornerstone of Puerta del Sol for over a century. Originally located on Calle Jacometrezo, it later moved to its current iconic spot, becoming a favorite for both locals and visitors.

Ensaimadas were its first great success, attracting customers who gathered for tertulias (literary discussions) while enjoying chocolate, coffee, and ice cream served on crystal shell-shaped plates by waiters in tuxedos speaking French.

Today, La Mallorquina’s signature treat is the napolitana, but during the holidays, visitors flock to buy:

  • Yule logs
  • Marzipan figurines
  • Roscón de Reyes

A Century of Sweet Delights

Each of these century-old pastry shops is a living testament to Madrid’s rich culinary history, offering a blend of tradition, nostalgia, and exquisite flavors. Whether it’s Casa Mira’s legendary turrón, La Duquesita’s artisanal panettone, or El Riojano’s regal marzipan, these historic bakeries continue to enchant sweet lovers, just as they have for over 100 years.

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